Predictor Game

4 Reasons Your Horse Might be Resisting the Contact

22 September 2020

A horse who is resisting the contact comes in many different forms; they could be sitting behind the vertical or tossing their head, could be doing their best giraffe impersonation and going hollow, or even just locking the jaw and refusing to soften to your hand.

 

Having a horse who accepts the contact softly and willingly makes everything so much easier; not only can you get the horse more engaged and over the back, you’ll also have better steering, more refined aids, and more control if you end up in a difficult or scary situation.

 

So what’s the deal with horses resisting the contact and why would you horse be doing it?

 

Here’s four reasons that might be the cause of your problem…

   

1. Your Horse Isn’t Going Forward

In order for your horse to be moving in a correct outline and accepting the contact correctly, he needs to have enough impulsion to engage the hocks and work over the back.

 

If your horse is trundling along without any real impulsion or energy, you’re likely to find it hard to get him “on the bit” as you might have heard some riders say.

 

This is because in reality, the contact is made up of so much more than just the horse’s mouth. There’s a lot of small parts which all need to work in harmony to create a good contact, and they all begin with the horse moving forward freely and willingly from your leg.

 

If this is the case, remember to ride your horse from front to back. If you are blocking the horse by pulling or sawing on the reins, it acts a little like a handbrake, so remember allow him to move forward into your (elastic) rein contact.

 

 2. Pain Issues 

If your horse has suddenly become resistant to the contact and wasn’t previously (or even if he has just always been this way!) pain could be the answer.

 

One of the most obvious things to check is the teeth, as a hook or some problematic wolf teeth could be the answer to why your horse is tossing his head, snatching the bit, or simply not wanting to accept your contact.

 

Remember though that the mouth isn’t the only area to look, and problems manifesting in the contact could be caused anywhere – one of the most common problem areas resulting in contact issues is the back. If your horse is sore in the back, he’s more likely to want to go hollow to avoid pressure and pain.

 

Get the professionals in to check any areas you might be suspicious of – who knows, perhaps your ‘my horse won’t flex right’ problem could be solved by a simple filing of the teeth!

 

 3. Your Rein Contact Is Wrong 

If we’re certain that our horse isn’t in pain, the rider is almost always the issue, unfortunately!

 

The ‘wrong’ rein contact could mean a number of things, largely because there are so many factors to consider with each individual horse.

 

Having said that, plenty of horses will become resistant when the contact that the rider is offering isn’t what they need or are used to.

 

Common problems here include:

  • Holding too tight, which may cause the horse to either hollow and put his head up, or sit behind the vertical and not truly accept the contact. You may also find your horse snatching at his reins or tossing his head.
  • Uneven contact, which can cause the horse to tilt or not to want to flex in one direction. If you’re right handed for example, it’s likely that your right rein might be stronger and/or shorter than your left rein which can make it hard for the horse to accept it evenly on both sides
  • Reins that are too loose or floppy can also sometimes create a problem. As riders, we often think that soft hands mean a loose contact, but this isn’t true – you do need to give your horse a contact to go into and give him the confidence to seek the bit. Reins that are very long and fingers that aren’t properly closed on the reins can be difficult for the horse to search for

 

 4. The Wrong Bit Choice 

There are some basic bit fitting principles need to be followed when you’re choosing a bit for your horse, including making sure that you have the correct size so it doesn’t pinch or rub, making sure that the width isn’t so thin that it’s severe or so thick that the horse finds it cumbersome or bulky, and always choosing a bit which offers you control without severity.

 

On top of that, a horse’s individual way of going, temperament, and general preferences also have to be taken into account when choosing a bit.

 

While changing tack is no substitute for good, correct schooling it is true that most horses respond better to certain bits than others, the same way that we might find one pair of shoes more comfy than the other even if they both technically fit.

 

You can try a few different bits out with the help of an instructor or knowledgeable friend to see if this makes any difference, paying attention to things like the feel of different cheekpieces, the width of the bit, and the severity or action of it. For instance, a horse with a very soft mouth would object to a three ring gag with the reins on the lowest hole, and a horse with a low palate might find an elliptical link snaffle too bulky but a plain French link snaffle comfortable.

 

Good luck with overcoming your challenge! Check out the Teach Me section of FEI.org for more great tips on riding and horsemanship…

 

Words by Sophie Baker

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